Thursday, July 19, 2012

William the Conqueror and the irony of "English Spoken Here"

Greetings blogfriends!

Today I journeyed via train from Caen to Bayeux, a little town just 15 minutes away which is also known as "Tourist-topia." Seriously, more tourists than Paris. SO. MANY. TOURISTS.

They are there, I can only assume, to see the D-Day beaches. However, there were more than enough of them at the Tapestry as well, which is the reason I went to Bayeux.

Okay, so let's start at the beginning.

Bayeux is home to, among other things, the Bayeux Tapestry an 11th Century masterpiece measuring nearly 70 metres. It depicts William the Conqueror's conquest of England. Legend has it his wife Mathilda completed, although most historians now believe it was commissioned to adorn the Cathedral at Bayeux.

Unfortunately, you are not able to take pictures of the tapestry, but I did take some photos of the exhibit, and a few other pretty things in and around Bayeux.

So here begins, Edition Two: William the Conqueror Journey through Normandy.


Cute little house with a view of the Cathedral in the background.


The Cathedral. 


Inside the Cathedral.


Here's a picture of Thomas a'Beckett being murdered. Thomas was one of the chief advisors of Henry II who made him Archbishop of Canterbury. However, after becoming Archbishop, Henry's fast friend became a bit more religious than he had hoped, notably taking the Pope's side in a big stoush they were having. After a screaming match with Henry, Thomas fled to France and stayed briefly in Bayeux and celebrated a Mass in this very Cathedral!

He was murdered by Henry's knights after Henry declared in a fit of rage upon hearing about a'Beckett's exploits abroad "will no-one rid me of this turbulent priest!" The knights snuck out after hearing that, and did what Henry asked. Henry was stricken with guilt for the rest of his life, and claimed he never wanted anyone to take him seriously (that time!).


If you can't see it, the sign says: English Spoken. 

This amuses me greatly. The Norman conquest brought French to England, and it took another four hundred years before the English Monarchs were speaking English again. Now, come to Bayeux and see most important document of the Conquest, and have your Norman waiter speak in English to you! 


This is a far more sophisticated version of the same amusing irony. This monument, outside the British War Cemetery at Bayeux declares, in Latin: 

WE WHO WILLIAM ONCE CONQUERED HAVE SET THE CONQUEROR'S HOMELAND FREE.



The war cemetery was chilling.  I am very glad I went. It really does just give you a new appreciation for the scope of the conflict and just how much was lost in human life and potential.



These are images of the tapestry from the exhibit upstairs. 


Norman Warrior. He was about four feet high. I could have taken him! (If I had a spear, or you know, could belly flop him). 


Itsy bitsy mail for an itsy bitsy warrior.


Romanticised painting of Queen Mathilda embroidering the Bayeux Tapestry.


And on that note, back in Caen, here is her Abbey. It was founded at the same time and for the same reason as William's Abbey, which I visited yesterday.


Here is her tomb. It's the original.



These banners, which hang around her tomb depict women from the bible and saints. I think it is really nice that the church have used her tomb to make a shrine to women who led before their time. 

Tomorrow, heading back to Paris at midday. Second last day in France! London, here we come!